Frequently asked questions

In order for carbon filter technology to have the best conditions, it is important to follow the maintenance instructions for the grease filter. Regular maintenance of the grease filter helps to form the basis for optimal effect of your carbon filter and can affect the replacement interval of the carbon filter.

We recommend that you use the original carbon filter intended for the hood, for optimal effect.

Carbon filters and monoblock filters are used for recirculation of the ventilation and must be replaced after the specified time to ensure that the scum collection and ventilation function properly.

Replace every 4 months:
Carbon filter 9250, used e.g. in Lyra, Helios, Sigma, Flora, Cilindro and Neptune.
Carbon filter 9410, used in older Crystall 1140.
Carbon filter 403709, used in Crystall 1140.
Carbon filter 9251, used e.g. in Vero, Argo and Sheen.
Carbon filter 9247, can be used on all products that use 9251.

Replace after 12–18 months:
Carbon filter 403296, used on 600 model.
Carbon filter 3298, used on Fortuna.
Carbon filter 9818, used on 600, Crystall 1160 and Fortuna.

Replace after 200 hours (between 1–2 years):
Carbon filter 403261, used on Leda and Slide.

Replace after 900 hours (between 4–5 years):
Carbon filter 8521 RørosHetta Monoblock filter. Used in all Sense products delivered for recirculation. All carbon filters are designed to remove general food odors and meat odors. RørosHetta’s Monoblock filter is inserted with a special coating to remove fish odors.

Replace after 3,000 hours:
403254 Plasma Carbon filter.

Send us an inquiry here, with a picture of the RørosHetta ventilator and the filter you currently have, and technical support will help you find which filter you need.

On this site you will also find an explanation of where to find the serial number and product name/type.

See an explanation of where to find this information on our various products here.

If you do not replace the carbon filter after the recommended time, the filter will lose its effectiveness and this will significantly reduce the air quality in your home.

Some carbon filters can be washed or regenerated, but only those designed for this. See the instructions for use for your filter for more information.

Contact our technical support team for assistance.

The grease filter should be cleaned once a month based on normal use. Over time, the grease filter will become somewhat weakened, but usually, depending on quality, does not need to be replaced before 4-5 years have passed.

The grease filter should be washed regularly, once a month.

Fill the sink with warm water and washing-up liquid or put it in the dishwasher at a maximum temperature of 50 degrees. However, remember that this is a filter and food residues can get stuck. Many filters are made of aluminum and can therefore be discolored by dishwasher powder. This has no effect on the function. A carbon filter must normally be replaced every year if it is not washable.

Large accumulations of grease pose a great risk of fire spreading. Grease catches fire very quickly. When the grease filter is clogged, the efficiency of the fan is also reduced, and grease spreads further into the other ducts.

All hoods with Sense technology have a small circulation fan in the switch panel itself that runs at regular intervals. Some people find the noise from the fan annoying.

Problem: The central unit does not respond to any of the buttons and none of the indicator lights are on.
Solution: There is no power to the central unit. Make sure that the power supply is properly connected to the power outlet. Make sure that the socket where the power supply is connected is active. 1: Check the fuses. 2: Check the connections on the socket. Make sure that the power cable is properly connected to the central unit. The socket should be almost completely inside the central unit. Due to the waterproof structure, the connection is completely tight (applies to Siro R only). Make sure that the power cable is properly connected to the power supply. Make sure that there is power in the kitchen: check the fuses and connections in the consumer unit and check possible home/away switches.

Problem: The central unit does not respond when certain buttons are used according to the instructions.
Solution: Fault on the central unit. Component that needs to be replaced. Contact the supplier.

Problem: When pressing two buttons at the same time, the result is not as expected.
Solution: Holding down two buttons at the same time is a bit tricky. Try again carefully by first pressing yes, holding down the adjustment mode button, and then the auxiliary button.

Problem: The indicator light panels are constantly purple.
Solution: The stove guard is waiting for installation. See installation guide step 3/6.

Problem: The indicator light panels are flashing purple-blue.
Solution: Installation in progress: waiting for wireless connection. See installation guide step 3/6.

Problem: The indicator light panels are flashing yellow-green.
Solution: Installation in progress: waiting for calibration. See installation guide step 4/6.

Problem: The device repeatedly issues water leak alarms.
Solution: There is a water leak in the kitchen. See the user manual. The water leak sensor is wet or dirty. Wipe and clean the sensor. The water leak sensor connector is not properly connected. Remove the fuses for the stove and oven. Check that the leak sensors are properly connected. Reinsert the fuses.

Problem: The indicator light panels are constantly red.
Solution: The device is defective. Press the OK button to determine the type of problem from the indicator lights. Water leakage warning light flashes once: problem with the radio connection to the power control unit. Water leakage warning light flashes twice: The power control unit is defective. Water leakage warning light flashes three times: The power control unit has overheated. Hob danger warning light flashes once: Sensor is defective. Hob danger warning light flashes three times: Power supply is defective.

Problem: Installation does not go as expected.
Solution: You can restart the installation process at any time by pressing the function mode button for five seconds until you hear the signal and continue the installation step 3/6 (see installation instructions). Make sure that the cooker and oven (if connected to the power control unit) are switched off before starting the installation. Make sure that the cooker and oven are not active = that the fuses are off before starting the installation. Make sure that there is power in the kitchen: check the fuses and connections in the consumer unit and check possible home/away switches.

Problem: None of the hobs arrange a childproof lock alarm.
Solution: The wireless connection is not correctly activated. Check the connection again: repeat the installation from step 3/6.

Problem: The device switches off the power from the cooker, but the power comes back on.
Solution: The power control unit is connected incorrectly. Make sure the power control unit is connected correctly – in other words, the cooker is connected to the output cable.

Problem: Problems with step 3/6 during installation.
Solution: The central unit does not search for a pairing signal or the power control unit does not send a pairing signal.

Problem: Wireless connection is not established.
Solution: The central unit searches for a pairing signal from the power control unit only when the light panel flashes purple-blue. The power control unit will send the pairing signal for eight seconds when connected to the mains. See installation step 3/6. Make sure the power control unit is not powered before starting step 3/6: switch off the fuses in the fuse box. Hold down the function mode button for 5 seconds until you hear a beep and restart the installation process from step 3/6. There is no power to the power control unit. Make sure there is power in the kitchen: check the fuses and connections in the fuse box and check possible home/away switches.

Problem: Problem in installation step 4/6 (Calibration).
Solution: During calibration, the cooker does not use power. Calibration requires the cooker to use at least 300 W of power.

Problem: Does not recognize the cooker/hob.
Solution: With an induction cooker, use a compatible plate or suitable metal object. When calibrating a cooker, turn on the largest hob at maximum heat. Make sure the cooker is actually switched on – not just the oven light or the fan. The cooker or oven is not connected to the power management unit. Make sure the cooker is connected to the power management unit. The central unit may have been wirelessly linked to the neighbour’s power management unit. Repeat the installation for both cooker guards again from step 3/6.

Problem: Fuses cut off power when power is connected to the power supply unit.
Solution: The power supply unit is incompatible with the electrical connections. Check the power connections for the cooker and compare it with the label on the power supply unit. The power supply unit is incorrectly connected. Check the connections, see the label on the power supply unit The cooker plug or socket is incorrectly connected. Check the wiring of the cooker plug and socket. Check if the cooker cable or cooker is short-circuited.

Problem: Problems connecting the power supply unit to the cooker or the mains.
Solution: Incompatible power supply unit to electrical connection.

Problem: The stove guard lights up constantly red after calibration.
Solution: An error has occurred during calibration and the sensor needs to be reset.

Possible cause: Wrong valve on the outer wall.
Solution: Change to a lamella valve/flap damper. Hold a drying sheet/A4 sheet under the grease filter. In step 2, the sheet should be sucked up and stick to the grease filter.

Possible cause: Incorrect installation of the ventilation duct.
Solution: The duct should be pulled out as far as possible. Contact the installer. Hold a drying sheet/A4 sheet under the grease filter. In step 2, the sheet should be sucked up and stick to the grease filter.

Possible cause: The damper on the top of the motor box does not open.
Solution: Contact the installer.

Possible cause: The damper is clogged.
Solution: Check if the damper opens and that the exhaust duct is extended. Contact the installer.

Possible cause: The grease filter is clogged.
Solution: Wash the grease filter thoroughly in the dishwasher or sink. Must be done at least every 2 months.

Possible cause: Too little supply air.
Solution: The air that is blown out must be replaced. Open doors to other rooms or leave the window ajar.

Possible cause: Clogged roof cap.
Solution: Check that there is free passage through the roof cap if the duct goes out above the roof.

Possible cause: Incorrect installation/power failure.
Solution: Check quick connectors/wires/power supply. Contact the installer.

Possible cause: Defective switch panel.
Solution: First check that 24 hour post-ventilation is not activated. Disconnect the power supply for 1 minute. If this does not work, order a new one. Read the type designation on the model. Use the service form below.

Possible cause: Defective circuit board.
Solution: Read the type designation on the model and order a new one. Use the service form below.

Possible cause: Transformer defective for 20 W halogen bulbs.
Solution: Read the type designation on the model and order a new one.

Possible cause: Fuse defective for 50 W halogen bulbs.
Solution: Replace with a new 1.6 ampere fuse. Remove grease filter and insert a new fuse behind the “FUSE” button.

Possible cause: Clogged duct/damper.
Solution: Remove any loose objects from the ventilation duct. Check that the damper opens. Contact the installer.

Possible cause: Defective/transport damaged motor.
Solution: Read the type designation and order a new motor.

Possible cause: Filter indicator.
Solution: Clean the filter and press and hold the 24-hour button for 5 seconds to reset the indicator.

Possible cause: Filter indicator.
Solution: Clean the filter and press and hold button #3 for 5 seconds to reset the indicator.

Possible cause: Filter indicator.
Solution: Clean the filter and press and hold the left button (with fan symbol) for 3 seconds to reset the indicator.

Above a gas stove, the distance should be at least 70 cm, due to the risk of fire. Otherwise, between 50–70 cm is recommended, depending on the type of hood and the height of the people living there. Both corner and free-hanging hoods are easier to work under if the hood is raised slightly.

Choose a kitchen hood that is wider than the hob.

Increase the dimension of the exhaust duct from 5″ to 6″ (from 12.5 cm to 15 cm) if there is room for this.

Try as much as possible to avoid many bends/kinks in the hose. Turn on the hood 5 min. before you start cooking to create a draft in the room. Leave the door to adjacent rooms ajar so that the hood can collect replacement air for the amount of air that is being sucked out.

Screw 2 strips to the wall or ceiling so that they will fit inside the duct. Secure the duct by screwing from the outside of the duct into the strips.

The ventilation hose should usually be routed through the ceiling and out over the roof. Instead of cutting the metal duct diagonally under the ceiling, it is easiest to extend the duct so that it can be stuck up into the ceiling. How far it needs to be extended depends on the roof angle, but approx. 30 cm is usually sufficient. Use the roof ridges or an interchange between these for a solid attachment.

Always state the relevant ceiling height when ordering.

Ducts for ceiling heights above 290 cm are available on request. Price on request.

Turn on the extractor fan 5-10 minutes before you start cooking. This creates a slight negative pressure in the room that starts the air circulation. If you wait until the damage has occurred and the kitchen is full of food, no extractor fan in the world will be able to bring it up from floor level.

Close the windows in the kitchen, but make sure that the extractor fan can get fresh air, for example by leaving the door to the living room ajar.

Use the middle setting while cooking. If you have to turn the extractor fan on to the highest setting, you have probably ruined the food!

Use the lowest setting for post-ventilation for approx. 15 minutes.

The dimension, length and number of bends/knicks on the exhaust duct are decisive for how much you actually get out of the engine’s capacity.

By using a hose with a diameter of 6″ (inches) =150 mm, you will get better use of the capacity.

Make sure there are no unnecessary bends on your duct, as this can create extra air resistance. The inside should be as smooth as possible and try as much as possible to avoid bends/knicks on the way out into the open air.

Three things that affect the noise level of the kitchen hood:

The motor – less significant
The air speed – very significant
Duct noise – significant

It is therefore rarely the motor that creates annoying noise, but the flow of air through the ducts.

Our in-house manufactured kitchen hoods (Sense kitchen hoods) are soundproofed to create a comfortable kitchen environment without unnecessary noise from the kitchen hood.

Odour capture is the hood’s ability to capture and separate food odours from the kitchen air.

All our hoods capture between 95–99%.

A kitchen hood with good odour capture capacity does not need a large air volume to create a good indoor climate. Several of our hoods have a volume section at the bottom, which helps to capture cooking odours even at low air volumes.

Our kitchen hoods with integrated Sense technology have a raised base plate to ensure optimal odour capture.

All products should be cleaned regularly with a damp cloth and mild soapy water. If grease is left on the product over time, it will stick more and more.

Copper hoods that are fire-lacquered can be cleaned with warm water and washing-up liquid.

Steel hoods can be maintained with steel cleaner, or you can wipe with a damp, then dry microfiber cloth.

All products should be cleaned regularly with a damp cloth and mild soapy water. If grease is left on the product over time, it will stick more and more.

Lacquered hoods are easily cleaned with warm water and washing-up liquid.

All products should be cleaned regularly with a damp cloth and mild soapy water. If grease remains on the product over time, it will stick more and more. Products with high-gloss metal must not be cleaned with a microfibre cloth as this can lead to small scratches.

The metals are treated with anti-fingerprint for better durability. Brushed metals can be subsequently treated with various impregnation drugs, this will usually lead to a slightly darker color of the metal.

For high-gloss PVD, do not use abrasives, but for example glass cleaner in a spray bottle and paper. On brushed PVD, hot water and washing-up liquid work well.

If you are unlucky with scratches in the painted products, you can try ordering a stain varnish. Take a picture of the label on the inside of the grease filter with the serial number so that we can find the right color and contact us via the contact form here: Service form.

When replacing the extractor fan, we strongly recommend that you also replace the flexible duct, as over time a lot of grease builds up in it. This is both flammable and unhygienic, so it should be replaced if you choose to replace the kitchen hood.

Read more here

To clean an induction cooktop, start with a cold cooktop and remove loose residue with a soft cloth. Then use a special induction cooktop cleaner, a scouring cream (like Jif Scrubbing Cream), or a mixture of baking soda and water for stubborn stains. For burnt-on food, use a scraper designed for induction cooktops and scrape gently at a low angle. Always finish by wiping with a clean, damp cloth and then a dry microfiber cloth to avoid soap residue.